Arequipa's 475th Anniversary (Molly)

We stayed for two amazing days in Arequipa, and the city came to us. 

We arrived early on the first morning, tired after the first of our overnight bus journeys. After dropping our bags at our hostel, we went out to see who served breakfast at 6am. We ended up at one of the patio restaurants overlooking the central square. The food was overpriced for Peru, but when overpriced is $8 NZD / $6 USD for fresh juice, fresh bread, jams, pancakes and coffee, you can't complain too much.

The large white, Spanish colonial buildings which hem in the square are made of local stone, and the grand scale pronounces, 'We are the Conquistadors'. We watched as the city started to wake up. Old men and women came into the park to read the paper. The sun rose behind the basilica, and you could see the two enormous mountains to the north of the city, El Misti and Chachani. South American holiday makers came into the square, and bus touts opened shop. While we were in the middle of winter, as the sun edged onto the patio it forced us back into the shade.

It is worth visiting Arequipa for the Santa Catalina Monastery alone. founded in 1579, it was closed off from the world for almost 400 years, until they opened part of it in the 1970s. it is cool, peaceful and stunningly beautiful. With the bright pastel colours, angled cobblestone streets and courtyards with painted frescos playing with the light, it is also a photographer's dream. 21 nuns still live in a walled off area of the monastery. It seems like a peaceful life.

In the evening we followed our ears to San Francisco square, where a local military band was playing. Two adorable and precocious children, freshly adorned with sashes from a dance competition, got up and performed for the crowd. It was a magical moment we couldn't have planned if we had tried.

When we wandered back through the square to see the buildings lit up at night, we saw people setting up a stage. We asked what was going on, and found out that there would be a parade the next morning for Arequipa's 475th Anniversary. We thought, 'Oh, that might be interesting'. So when we went out the next morning for our coffee, we thought we'd perch on the balcony restaurants again to see what was going on. 

Little did we know, we had gained front row seats for a stunning display of local performances that lasted from 10 until at least 2pm, by which point our eyes were saturated with colourful spinning skirts, military drills, Cowboys on horseback, floats, and even an interesting (though slightly uncomfortable for us) blackface performance, which the locals found hilarious. There was also a man-dressed-as-buxom-woman performance, similar to the fa'afafine tradition in the Pacific. By 11am the terrace was heaving, and while we kept offering to give up our front row seats, the locals surrounding us insisted we stay. They pointed out when their children were coming down as part of a traditional dance, and tried to explain what the various flags meant. I'll let the photos speak for themselves.

Traveller Tips: 

Cruz del Sur met our very high expectations, with large, comfortable seats, decent food, and friendly service. We booked online for the full cama seats which fold down to 180 degrees, though we felt guilty putting them all the way down, as you're practically in the lap of the person behind you. If you book early, reserve ground floor (for the swaying) and front row so no one is leaning into you. 

We found it hard to book online for a bus from Arequipa to Puno, but as other blogs said we had no trouble booking once we were in Arequipa. Most hostels and travel agencies on the street are actually pretty helpful and reputable. We used 4M bus to do this route, which provided an excellent lunch and a few scenic stops along the way. Highly recommended.

Zingaro restaurant was well worth the slightly higher price. We had lomo saltado and alpaca ribs, both of which were divine. The building is a former home of the local priests, so the stonework and frescos are all amazing and original. The service was impeccable. The house wine was... Peruan. I hear they are starting to make better wines. Until they succeed, I suggest sticking to pisco sours.

Crepisimo cafe at the Alliance Française (yes, there is one in Arequipa!) has excellent crepes and wifi, and is a great place to chill for a while. The rooftop also has one of the best views of the city and mountains.