I could live in Lima (Molly)

San Cristobal, Lima

We arrived in Lima just as dawn was breaking. Oscar, the driver from our hotel, weaved us through the morning traffic and around the beachfront, lined with dusty promenades, shipping equipment and colonial and modern cafes jutting out on piers. Through our broken Spanish, we learned that he was originally from Chiclayo and that the light drizzle falling was almost unheard of in Lima this time of year.

I think travel always shows you something new about the person you're travelling with, and despite knowing Nick for more than 12 years, I've only just realised what a knack he has for languages. He took one semester of university Spanish 20 years ago and has managed to guide us around a country where English is often not spoken even in tourist areas (a refreshing change). I learned Spanish about 10 years ago with a lovely tutor (and now dear friend), Carol, who persisted in our class of 4 friends who were generally more interested in drinking Spanish wine than learning verb conjugations.

However, I try. And in trying, I have managed to say, "Soy avocado" (I am an avocado, or a lawyer", and  "Estoy delicioso" (I am delicious). I think it is to the Peruvian people's great credit that they don't crack up every time I open my mouth.

Here is our amazing hotel (Casa Nuestra) in Barranco, Lima:

We chose to stay out of central Lima, in the hip artists' district, which was an excellent choice. Barranco is filled with little cafes, shops and bars, all tucked away down streets with murals painted on walls and locals just going about their lives. We started out with an early breakfast at the excellent La Bodega Verde with freshly squeezed orange juice, freshly baked breads, freshly made jam, etc. Fuelled up, we went on a random wander of the area. We saw old churches, falling down colonial facades, and ultramodern restaurants. Apparently Peruvian cuisine is the 'newest thing' in places like New York and London, in case you didn't know.

Street art in Barranco, Lima

We ended up at that evening at Fiesta (the restaurant, not the casino) in Miraflores, which features cuisine from the coast of northern Peru. From various reviews we read, we decided try the Arroz con Pato a la Chiclayana (rice with duck, Chiclayana style)the Cebiche Caliente (spicy ceviche). The duck was very nice. The ceviche was stupefying. I believe you only have a handful of times in your life where you taste food this good. The bistecca fiorentina we had in a hole-in-the-wall restaurant in Florence was one, another was the chipati passed through a chain link fence in Nairobi. Thanks for the birthday present, Caitlin and Larry, and Kelika for the brilliant recommendation!

Ceviche of the Gods

The next day we went to Miraflores, which was clean and safe and pretty, but somehow lacking the soul of Barranco. We made our way on the Metropolitano train to the centre city, which was still dressed up for Independence Day celebrations from the past week. We took part in our favourite pastime, people watching, on the cathedral steps in the main square, and I thought I could happily live in Lima.

Plaza de Armas