Ollantaytambo (Molly)

Many tourists make the trip to Machu Picchu in one long day directly from Cusco, or even from Lima, which seems like more of a test of endurance than a holiday. In doing so, they not only exhaust themselves, but also miss one of the great pueblos of Peru: Ollantaytambo.

The government of Peru seems to have made some very progressive laws in its time, one being that in the town of Ollantaytambo, which has been continuously inhabited since the 13th century, the residents must preserve the beautiful Incan buildings and only use the same style in any new residences. This means that the town maintains a wonderful authenticity of Incan (and pre-Incan) stone doorways, cobbled streets, water channels and bridges. Ruins and high mountains tower over the town, glittering in the sun. While there is some tourism, most of the residents are just living their normal lives, often wearing traditional hats and skirts or carrying babies in brightly coloured woven cloth.

Nick and I spent two nights at Ollantaytampu Hostel, which was off a little side street from the main square, in a family's home that they have turned into a B&B. While it is sometimes awkward feeling like you're in someone's living room (the teenage boys were fond of playing lots of YouTube music videos, but at least they had good taste), the views and the breakfasts were fantastic. Here is what we saw from our breakfast table:

Most of our time was spent either on this patio or wandering the winding side streets.

In doing so, we had one of the best meals so far in Peru. A little place, Restaurant Pizzeria Mijunapaq, which is on Chaupi Calle just off the main square, served up 'lomo alpaca', or 'alpaca tenderloin' in what we think was black currant sauce. Succulent and tender, similar to a good veal. Delicioso.

To save money we bought quinoa and vegetables at the local market (carefully avoiding the dried llama foetuses - apparently you can buy them as an offering to Pachamama, the goddess Mother Earth), and cooked over gas late in the evening. 

We couldn't leave without seeing the amazing ruins, just a 5 minute stroll down the hill. If I hadn't just seen Machu Picchu, I'd say they were some of the best I'd ever seen. Ollantaytambans must feel that they are a little short changed - if their town were anywhere else in the world, people would be coming thousands of miles to see it. Just as well that it isn't.